15mm Sci Fi - Old Crow Vehicle Pool....what to do?

I have a problem: too many vehicles from Old Crow.  

The vehicles below are divided into two distinct vehicle pools: hover and tracked/wheeled.  My issue is: what should I paint them?  The tracked vehicles in particular are a problem, mainly because there are so many.  I could split them into two separate pools and paint them in different camo schemes.  Or, I could do one massive force pool for a future GZG NAC army that I am contemplating.  The NAC are likely to be re-sculpted in the near future and this force was dedicated to that project.  However, perhaps 21 vehicle is too many?

The hover force is designed as an assault unit.  Equipped with high tech and heavily armored vehicles it carries enough firepower to deal with most foes.  It also has a small logistical train to attack/defend.

The three Trojan Light APCs will most likely become unarmed transports.  I will simply replace the GZG weaponry with hatches.  It is always good to have supply vehicles to attack/defend.  Stowage is not permanently attached yet.  I used white tac to see what looks good and what I like.  It is subject to change.

Decisions, decisions.  

My 15mm Sci Fi Inventory & Cats!

I thought it might be an interesting exercise to catalog all of my 15mm Sci Fi forces and do a brief breakdown of what I have (mainly for my own sake).  It is larger than I thought (I have never put it to paper before).  To add to the insanity, I tend to create a vehicle pool for each force.  I have sold much over the years, but eventually, I replaced all of that with more of the same (painted better though).

I don’t have any pictures of models today.  Instead, say hello to Ash and William, two of our four cats.  William tried miniature painting....he is not very good at it.

I likely need medical assistance.  

The figure ranges that I have painted in numbers suitable for army level (or Platoon+ level..aka Stargrunt 2) games are:

1. GZG NSL Panzergrenadiers 
2. GZG Outrim Coalition
3. GZG Mercenaries 
4. GZG Kra'Vak
5. GZG Crusties
6. GZG Phalons
7. GZG Xar
8. GZG Ixx
9. GZG UNSC Light Infantry
10. GZG Free Cal-Tex
11. GZG Robots & Drones (tons) 
12. GZG Civilians & Armored SWAT
13. GZG Tomorrow's War DPRG
14. GZG Tomorrow's War US Marines 
15. GZG Tomorrow's War Brazillians 
16. GZG Tomorrow's War Darghaur 
17. Critical Mass Presentia Robots
18. Brigade Models Polish Infantry 
19. Khurasan Xenomorphs
20. Khurasan Soriog
21. Khurasan Red Faction
22. Khurasan Apoc666 
23. Alternative Armies Laserburn Imperial Troops & Power Armor
24. Alternative Armies Asgard Space Marines
25. Alternative Armies Grey Aliens

This does not include small ranges of monsters and other odds and ends (power armor, battlesuits, ect).  My guess is 2000+.  Maybe more.  

Vehicle Ranges Painted in significant numbers are:

1. Brigade Models British/German Hover, 9
2. Brigade Models PacFED Grav, 9
3. Old Crow Hover, 15
4. Old Crow Grav, 13
5. GZG Advanced Grav, 8
6. GZG High Tech Grav & Mechs 10
7. GZG Tracked, 21
8. GZG Kra'Vak, 6
9. GZG Walker, 6
10. Khurasan Red Faction (with some other manufacturers thrown in too), 24
11. Antonitis Workshop, 5
12. Khurasan Federal Tracked, 4
13. Khurasan Huntarr Grav, 3
14. Tau Battlesuits, 11
15. Old Crow Alien Grav Tanks, 5
16. Rebel Minis Tripods & Alternative Armies War Crabs, 13

To add to this, on my WIP table I still have 30+ Old Crow hover and tracked vehicles (two separate vehicle pools), plus almost 300 1:100 scale troops: Khurasan's Control Battalion, GZG UNSC Hardsuit Marines and GZG Alien Mercs.  However, I am stuck on the vehicles at the moment.  The number of camo schemes that I am contemplating is large and deciding on two is rather difficult.  Normally I have a rule: never paint the same scheme twice.  Perhaps that is foolish.  

I have used this one in the past on my old Imperial Guard:  GW Shadow Grey and Dead Flesh.  Perhaps I will try it on a smaller scale.

Once this is done I will be at the end of the road I think (at least for awhile).  I am already out of display space and will likely be out of painting mojo as well.  There might be a few odds and ends but nothing on the scale that I have done in the past.  It would be a miracle if I ever played with all of this stuff regularly.  

Oh God......I still have to start my Perry Miniatures Agincourt project.  

  

15mm Sci Fi - Far Eastern Corporate Gun Drones & Air Support

Well, I finally painted the last six models (Gun Drones), for my Alien Squad Leader Far Eastern Corporate force (Musashi Corporation).  Gun Drones are a great addition to 15mm forces.  They are small enough to sub in as large robotic combat drones (or in Alien Squad Leader, Heavy Droids), and are especially suitable as alien robots (because thats what they actually are).

Musashi Corporate Security secures an LZ on Altair IV.

These guys were painted up in the same scheme as the mecha and grav vehicles.  

Synthetic Combat Troops are accompanied by Robotic Combat Drones.

In Alien Squad Leader, Corporate forces do not use "Heavy Droids" (although they do use other types of robotic troops).  In this case I add the drones to regular infantry stands and count them as Heavy Weapons Squads.

Gun Drones, being highly expendable, provide heavy firepower in dangerous situations.

The VTOL is simply a Matchbox toy, repainted.  This counts as a Distant Flyer in Alien Squad Leader.

Robotic VTOL Gunships provide close air support for the LZ.  Dual fusion cannons make short work of hostiles.

The models are of course very easy to assemble and paint.  Nothing much to them really.  I made both high and low elevation flight stands for them.  The smaller are the same with with the stands cut off about mid way.  

Another army finally finished.  On to other projects, very likely my large Old Crow vehicle pool.

One day I will have to do an army shot with all of Musashi Corporate Security present.  Not sure if the Board of Directors will approve that expense though.

15mm Sci Fi - 9th Star Dragons Khurasan Super Heavy Grav Tank & more Tau Battlesuits

 This week was a slow week, but fruitful.  I managed to bang off four additional vehicle models for my 9th Star Dragon Mercenary force.   I used the same medium grey scheme as on the other grav vehicles posted earlier.  This small project was inspired by the Far Eastern Corporate army list for Alien Squad Leader.  It contains both piloted vehicles and robotic mecha, all of which I have in abundance.  

Khurasan Super Heavy Grav Tank

The Khurasan vehicle is enormous.  To be honest, it is more of a small spacecraft than anything else.  Like many Khurasan resin vehicles, it required sanding and cleanup.  There are also mold lines which are unfixable and impossible to hide/deal with due to their location.

I had another three 40K Tau Battlesuits kicking around.  I thought they would work well as a mecha substitute.  For armament I went with a fusion gun and burst cannon.  The burst cannon works as a rapid fire gauss cannon and or a large gatling laser.  It also allows them to be used in 28mm Sci Fi games as heavy power armor if I so wish.

I always add decals to any vehicles.  They provide a visual pop and often force the eye to move around the model.  

The fire effect is just cotton, airbrushed various colors.  Tau battlesuits have unsightly connection points on the shoulders.  I prefer to use the missile pack and shield generators to conceal these as much as possible.  Plus they look cool.  Shield Generators count as Energy Shields in Alien Squad Leader.  In other games they could be force fields, sensors or whatever.  

Jumping Into Action!

With large flat panels, the Khurasan model was a prime candidate for color modulation.

Now I have all the vehicles done for this force.  It only took me 8 months to get around to it.  

15mm Sci Fi - Alien Squad Leader Armies - Alien Imperial & Alien Warrior Caste

 It has been awhile since I have made an army level entry.  These guys have been in a couple of blog posts, but this is the first time I managed to get everything in one place.

This force doubles as two different factions in Alien Squad Leader Games: Alien Imperial and Alien Warrior Caste.  My middle son is a big Halo fan, so I painted them up to look like the Covenant (as much as I could)

Alien Squad Leader Armies - Alien Imperial & Alien Warrior Caste

The Imperials are the highest technology force available in the game.  Equipped with both Superior Energy Weapons and Superior Energy Shields, and the abundance of Aiming Device upgrades, they are able to hit hard and often, all while reducing the effect of damage that might otherwise cripple other armies units.  Imperial units are not numerous.  Their high point cost means that every stand lost is a blow.  To supplement their forces they use a variety of Primitive units.  Some are equipped with primitive small arms with limited range and effectiveness, while others are armed with hand to hand weapons only or are made up of packs of wild beasts, more unleashed than controlled.  The biggest issue with the army is the vast unit selection they have.  So many toys and never enough points.

Warrior Caste is a variation of the Imperials.  They lack the energy weapons and shields and other technology upgrades.  However, their basic infantry is equipped with Power Armor across the board, and they have access to a number of upgraded Primitive Units to add to their numbers.  Curiously, they are also required to take 1 Mobile Artillery vehicle per 100 points.  Sadly, Warrior Caste armies do not have access to Robotic units.  They prefer to do the killing themselves, along with their loyal allied forces  

Command Stands and Characters of various types

I chose to represent both armies with a variety of miniatures, from both Khurasan and GW.  The 40K miniatures are big enough to work with the Khurasan figures and I had them lying around doing nothing.  The Soriog can be mixed and matched together to form more infantry stands if needed.  Four is just what I put on the stands for show.  The number of miniatures is irrelevant for the game itself.

Soriog Infantry units

Heavy Weapon Stands

Heavy Droids

The Grav tanks are also from Khurasan.  I needed something large enough to fit in scale wise with the Soriog.  It works (kind of).  Suspension of disbelief is required.  

Ultra Tanks and Ultra Transports (Grav)

Phase Tanks (Walkers) & a single Imperial Attack Craft

The Primitive units can be fielded as a mix of Fighters & Shooters, or as all Fighters (mixing the figures together).  

Lhurgg Commanders

Trained Creatures (Space Demons)

Mobile Artillery are represented by Tau Broadside Battlesuits.  

I forgot to include this guy in the photo.  A test paint early on for the Vallejo Shifters set.  Some sort of Matchbox toy.  It is used as any kind of light vehicle or transport.

 Perhaps these guys will even see action one day.

The Gaming Den 2.0

Two posts in one day.  I must be motivated.  

This week I was able to "Level Up" my downstairs Den.  Specifically, I created a dedicated 6'x4' table to replace my two 4'x4's (an eight foot length table was just too big for the space and necessitated me moving furniture around to unpleasant results).  With the addition of some gaming mats from Front Line Games everything will be complete.   

The table is just 3/4" MDF (no chance of warping at this thickness) with 4 sets of folding legs.  I had to cut the MDF to fit downstairs and connected the two pieces with twin piano hinges.  

In addition, I added the last of my 5 wall mounted display cabinets, care of Amazon.  They each contain five shelves.  However, I can add three more to each case by adding some of my own, care of Home Depot.  This will allow to me expand my miniature display ability and get most of my 15mm infantry figures out of their foam case tombs and into the light of day.  

That oak wall mounted unit will be holding my collection of large 28mm fantasy monsters very soon.  Yay!

The room also doubles as the Home Theater.  

These wall mounted cases are great for 15mm vehicles and buildings.  You could display anything with up to a 2.5" base in depth.  

Yes, I have been decorated for heroism on multiple miniature battlefields.

Many of my buildings went from a storage bin to display.  Yay.

This was a big week.  Things have finally come together.  Now I can die I guess.  :-/  

Trees....lots and lots of trees

 Through extensive research I have discovered that it takes two days to mount and flock the bases for 82 Noch Deciduous trees.   

I now have the most model trees of anyone who lives on my street.  

I win. 

15mm Sci Fi - Colony Shops part 2

 Last week I only showcased some of my 15mm Colony Shops.  These guys are from 4Ground Miniatures, MDF buildings that come pre-painted (yay).

Signs are easy enough to make.  Find an image you like and reduce in scale until you are happy.  Then mount it on plasticard.  I need so make a spare parts store or something like that.  For whatever reason I tend to focus on food.  I like food.

Every colonist needs a place to purchase their freeze-dried rations.

For those on the go there is always a place to find something to force down their gullet.

The posters are simply attached via white tac.  They can be glued on as well for a more permanent solution.  

For the sophisticated sentient there is always something to do.  

Star Travelers always have a place to stay...along with the local space cockroaches.

Not every sentient is welcome at Mc Burger.

There are many possibilities for signs and posters.  Use your Google-Fu and go crazy.

Why I choose to use Minwax vs traditional washes.

Over the years I have experimented with many different miniature scales, genres and painting techniques. During this period my style of painting seems to be in perpetual change:  I do not hold to a single painting method or style.  This has resulted in my use of different products for different miniature types, which can change depending on my mood at the time of the project.  In the case of 15mm Sci fi miniatures, I have found that when completing Army Scale projects I tend to use Polyshades Minwax vs traditional acrylic washes to complete both figures and vehicles.

Polyshades come in a variety of earth tones and is both a wood stain and Polyurethane varnish.  Army Painter Dips are basically the same thing as Minwax, with the price being the main difference.  I have tried all of them and found no difference at all in quality (although I find the Army Painter products thicker than Minwax).

The closest color matches are:

• Army Painter Dark Tone - Tudor (this is my go-to)
• Army Painter Strong Stone - Antique Walnut
• Army Painter Soft Tone - Pecan

Why would I use such a product?  It has a few major disadvantages vs acrylic washes:

• Oil-based, requiring mineral spirits to clean up and thin.
• Long drying time.

Lets go through these one at a time:

Oil Based

Yes, this is a pain in the ass.  However, a quick trip to the Dollar Store will solve a lot of headaches.  I use small plastic painting pots with plastic lids, 8 to a pack and a small dropper bottle that I filled with mineral spirits.  The small pot allows to me to use just the mount of stain that I need, which can be thinned in the pot by the dropper bottle.  No fuss or mess.  I keep some paper towels handy and usually work on top of an old Pizza box.  This keeps the mess contained.  Oil based stains are also much more forgiving than acrylic washes.  If it gets in an area that you would prefer to avoid it is a simple thing to wick it away with a brush.  

Drying Time

Oil Based stain can take up to 24 hours to dry.  This causes painting projects to be placed on hold while the product cures.  There are 3 ways of speeding this up:

• If the day is hot and dry, put your models out in the sun.  They will generally be dry within 3-5 hours.
• Another option is to use KLENK'S JAPAN DRYER.  This is a product that you can generally get at a local hardware store.  It is a hardener and speeds up the drying of oil based products.  I generally add a few drops to my paint pot mix.  This product is also very useful if the weather is damp or cool.  Sadly I do not know how much time this speeds up the process since I generally use the last method. 

• The final method is to bake your miniatures.  This only works with metal miniatures.  Do not try it with plastic or resin models (thick resin like Old Crow models seem to work fine though).  You have been warned.  Set your oven to 170 degrees and leave the door slightly open.  Place the models on a baking sheet and go relax.  Within 40 minutes they will be dry and the stain cured.  

Now, I do not use Minwax on all of my projects; for single figures and models with bright colors I use traditional washes and other techniques (such as working in triads, with a shade, base and highlight 56color).  The color palette and the desired effect dictate my approach.   

Tudor is close to Dark Tone, but it is really it's own color.  I find it a good mid point and looks more natural than a brown or black (brown can look like spilled coffee and black is often too stark looking IMO).  Tudor works best with earth tones, and perhaps a dark red.  While it is possible to use it right out of the can, I always thin mine before use (no more than 3:1).  1:100 scale figures are already very finely detailed and it does not take much to actually bring out the contrast and shading.  Too much can cause pooling problems and obscure details on the figure.  It is best to examine larger models after application and remove any pools which occur.  Quite often I will add a highlight in the post wash stage of the figure, to bring out details which I want to pop out.  

When painting vehicles and large models I generally apply a Gloss Coat before using the stain.  This is not necessary, but I find the end result is better.  This is especially important when working with large flat surfaces.  The gloss surface tends to prevent pooling, allowing the wash/stain to flow into the model's recesses naturally via capillary action.  If a model contains too many large horizontal flat areas I often avoid this whole process and use a traditional acrylic pin wash instead.  Model geometry plays a large part in what I do and how.

Now, why use this product vs acrylic washes?  Minwax does not stain the base color of the undercoat as much as an acrylic wash does and is forgiving to work with, especially if you gloss coat the models first.  Its shading effect is more subtle looking (at least to me) vs acrylics, which may be what you are looking for.  Again, it depends on your base colors and what you desire.  This is not a method for high end painting, but will give good tabletop quality results quickly.  

In the end it is a matter of choice.  On 1:100 scale figures both products work well, if properly thinned and applied in a measured fashion.