When using either Army Painter Dips or Minwax Polyshades on miniatures there are a couple of tips that might be helpful to those who are new to those products.
Model Preparation
Both products will slightly alter the base color underneath, similar to a wash. This may be desirable. However, if not you can mitigate this by applying a Gloss Coat prior to varnishing (this is applicable when applying traditional washes as well). When varnishing vehicles I always add a gloss coat. The coating allows the varnish to move more easily across the model surface (viscosity) and allows you to remove it if necessary (say on large flat areas or panels....Old Crow vehicle models are a prime example of why you should use a gloss coat) and tends to preserve the original colors more.
Application
Never dip. Ever. Always use a brush. Start from the top and work down. You do not need a lot to cover the model. Using excessive amounts will only increase pooling and your work load as you struggle to remove the pools. Remember, you can always add more later. Clean your brush will mineral spirits when done.
Thinning
Both products are rather thick. This is less of an issue on larger models, but at 1:100 scale or smaller it can become a problem. Therefore I suggest that you decant whatever amount you are planning to use into a small container, like a paint pot or similar vessel and thin the varnish with mineral spirits (I use Gatorade drink bottle caps after my sons are done with them). Dollar Store Paint Pots are a perfect choice if you can get them. Do not thin past 30% or the products will separate and you will have a mess. I suggest between 10-20%. Start low and work up if necessary. Make sure you mix the contents well and periodically during its use. Use an eyedropper bottle for the mineral spirits. This prevents you from over thinning and is just easier overall.
Dry Time
It can take up to one day for either product to completely dry. This creates delays in completing painting projects. This may or may not be an issue for you. If you wish to speed up the process when you can bake your models in an oven at 170 degrees for one hour. The models will be completely cured and you can continue your project. Keep in mind that this works best with metal models. Resin can be cured but thin objects like barrels can possibly warp due to the heat. You can straighten these without too much difficulty though. Your Significant Other may not appreciate you using the oven for paint curing. If so, do it when they are absent, or asleep.
Matt Varnishing
I do not suggest using Testors Dullcote on models done with either product. I have found that the Dullcote will create a crackling effect on the varnish surface occasionally. It does not happen every time and can happen even if the models are fully cured for days. I only use acrylic varnishes, all sprayed through my airbrush. Theses products will not negatively interact with the Polyshades/Army Painter varnishes. Brush on matt varnishes are an option, such as Vallejo or Mig.
Post Shade Highlighting
After matt varnishing I almost always do a post-shade highlight on select areas of the model. When highlighting anything I use two colors, layered over each other. This step is not required but it will make the models pop and add visual appeal. The exception are vehicles: I use Tamiya Weathering Pigments for all post-shade highlighting needs.
Minwax Polyshades to Army Painter Equivalents
Army Painter is expensive, especially when it is basically just relabeled Minwax. I have used both products and found no appreciable difference between the two. The Minwax equivalents to Army Painter are:
Soft Tone > Pecan
Strong Tone > Antique Walnut
Dark Tone > Tudor
I have found that Tudor works are almost anything and is my go-to for 15mm projects. Pecan is good for light earth tones and alien skin colors. Polyshades come in many colors which allows for some interesting effects which cannot be done with Army Painter due to its limited range.
I've been using TAMIYA COLOR X-19 smoke myself, it's about the same as Army painter medium and allot cheaper. As it comes in 23ml jars it last longer than the big tins from army painter.
ReplyDeleteNever tried Tamiya smoke in that manner. Indeed, I have never used it at all really. It is super thick so thinning is required of course.
Deletethe way I mitigate that is brush off excess then before it is fully dry spray flat the fig....really works!
Delete